|Blade Length||210 mm|
|Steel Type|| SLD Semi-Stainless Steel
with Stainless Steel Cladding
Rust Prone ⓘ This knife can rust, click to learn more.
|Edge/Bevel||Single Bevel - Right Bias|
|Handle||Hybrid Western/Japanese Handle - Chestnut Metal Bolster|
|Knife Line||Tadafusa Hocho Kobo|
|Made in||Tsubame-Sanjo, Niigata, Japan|
A note about measurements: Handmade Japanese knives can vary in their dimensions, so these measurements are only an example.
About the Shape -Yanagibas are long, thin, single-bevel knives ground and sharpened on one side. Translating to “willow’s leaf,” they’re graceful and elegant like their name suggests. Yanagibas are commonly used for slicing sashimi, but can also be used for carving other meats like roast beef and prime rib.
About Tadafusa Hocho Kobo -Tadafusa knives are manufactured in the city of Sanjo, part of the Niigata prefecture. Not only known as a traditional centre for tool and knife forging, but also for the finest sake Japan has to offer. Great booze AND knives? Let’s go! The core of the blade is made from a hard SLD steel but is clad in softer stainless steel. The softer, stainless steel acts like a cushion and protects the harder steel.
These Tadafusa knives were developed by Fumie Shibata, a female industrial designer who sought out input from the female perspective. They feature a tapered tang for a great balance, the handle is made from semi-charcoaled chestnut wood which helps make it very sanitary and corrosion resistant, and no, they aren’t just for ladies.
A NOTE ABOUT RUST
Semi-stainless steel is a compromise between the edge retention of carbon steel and the rust resistance of stainless. This steel will rust if you let it. To avoid “bad” rust (orange rust) Wipe the knife dry with a dry cloth after use. By this we mean: between cutting and putting the knife down, wipe it dry. Overtime the blade will begin to protect itself with an oxide layer (grey to dark grey “good” rust), this will slow the reaction time but not inhibit the rust entirely. Maintain the good habit of drying off your knife.
• You should only cut food you can bite through with this knife. No olive pits, bones, lobster shells, woody stems or parmesan rinds. Cutting frozen food is especially bad because the cold will make hard steel even more brittle. If you wouldn’t chew it with your own teeth, don’t cut it.
• Foods high in acid and moisture will hasten oxidization (rust of both kinds).
• Your cutting surface is the biggest culprit of dulling your knife. Use wood. Endgrain wood is especially good. Plastic can be fine too, but certainly not glass, granite or bamboo.
• The edge of your knife works best sliding forwards or backwards. Scraping the knife edge sideways will dull or damage the edge. Use the spine of the knife to move foods across the cutting board. Do not twist the edge or pry with the edge, this is the worst screwdriver you ever bought and these motions will certainly damage the edge. Listen to the knife! If you can hear the edge making a “tink” sound on the cutting board, change what you are doing.
• After use, wash the knife by hand with regular dish soap, rinse with hot water and dry by hand immediately. Dishwashers are very bad for knives.
• Wood handles may dry out over time and exposure to water. Simply treat them with some food safe mineral oil or beeswax.
• If you see orange rust, remove it. The scrubby side of a sponge can do the trick. If it’s still not coming off try baking soda and water mixed into a paste or a product called Barkeeper’s Friend.
• Protect the edge; for your safety and to avoid edge damage. A simple blade cover will do the trick if you keep knives in a drawer or travel case.
• A convenient wall magnet made with wood is a great way to show off your knives. Be sure to put it back spine first, then roll it onto the blade face. This will keep the edge from contacting the wood first.
• The good-ol’ counter top block can keep knives at the ready and protected. So can drawer inserts. Whatever the method, keep the edge from touching anything else.
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