Sakai Takayuki Byakko Yanagiba 300mm

About the Shape -Yanagibas are long, thin, single-bevel knives ground and sharpened on one side. Translating to “willow’s leaf,” they’re graceful and elegant like their name suggests. Yanagibas are commonly used for slicing sashimi, but can also be used for carving other meats like roast beef and prime rib.

About Sakai Takayuki Byakko -The Byakko series are the perfect tool for high-caliber sushi chefs or those who simply demand the best. White carbon steel makes them blazingly sharp with excellent edge retention, but also a joy to sharpen. From the ebony and water buffalo horn handle to handmade saya, every detail has been carefully considered.

Sakai Takayuki is well-known as the largest knife maker in Sakai. The company hosts a number of blacksmiths and craftsmen who work together to create a huge array of knives. Although the Sakai region traditionally specializes in single-bevel blades, Sakai Takayuki makes many different shapes.

Knife Shape	Yanagiba
Blade Length	300mm
Blade Height
Spine Thickness at Heel
Weight
Steel Type	Shirogami #1 (White Carbon Steel)core with Carbon Steel Cladding
Rockwell Hardness	64:65
Edge/Bevel	Single Bevel, Right hand bias
Handle	Wa (Japanese) Handle, Octagon Ebony wood handle with buffalo horn collar
Maker	Sakai Takayuki

A NOTE ABOUT RUST  

Carbon steel is an awesome material to make knives out of. It’s easy to get sharp and stays sharp a very long time. But this comes with a trade-off; It will rust if you let it. To  avoid “bad” rust (orange rust) Wipe the knife dry with a dry cloth after use. Over time, the  blade will begin to protect itself with an oxide layer (grey to dark grey “good” rust),  this will slow the reaction time but not inhibit the rust entirely. Maintain the good  habit of drying off your knife.  

USE  

• Only cut food you can bite through with this knife. Hard foods can chip the blade. No olive pits, bones,  lobster shells, woody stems or parmesan rinds. Cutting frozen food is especially bad  because the cold will make hard steel even more brittle. If you wouldn’t chew it with  your own teeth, don’t cut it.  

• Your cutting surface is the biggest culprit of dulling your knife. Use wood. End  grain wood is especially good. Plastic can be fine too, but certainly not glass,  granite or bamboo. 

• The edge of your knife works best sliding forwards or backwards. Scraping the  knife edge sideways will dull or damage the edge. Instead, use the spine of the knife to move foods across the cutting board. Do not twist the edge or pry with the edge, this is the worst screwdriver you ever bought and these motions will certainly  damage the edge. Listen to the knife! If you can hear the edge making a “tink”  sound on the cutting board, change what you are doing.  

CLEANING  

• After use, wash the knife by hand with regular dish soap, rinse with hot water  and dry by hand immediately. Dishwashers are very bad for knives.  

• Wood handles may dry out over time and exposure to water. Simply treat them  with some food safe mineral oil or beeswax.  

• If you see orange rust, remove it. The scrubby side of a sponge can do the trick.  If it’s still not coming off try baking soda and water mixed into a paste or a product  called Barkeeper’s Friend.  

STORING  

• Protect the edge; for your safety and to avoid edge damage. A simple blade cover  will do the trick if you keep knives in a drawer or travel case. 

• A convenient wall magnet made with wood is a great way to show off your knives.  Be sure to put it back spine first, then roll it onto the blade face. This will keep the  edge from contacting the wood first.  

• The good-ol’ counter top block can keep knives at the ready and protected. So can  drawer inserts. Whatever the method, keep the edge from touching anything else. 

We aim to ship your order within 1 business day at Knifewear, if there is a hold up, we'll aim to let you know and give you a timeline.

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