|Blade Length||150 mm|
|Blade Height||43 mm|
|Blade Thickness Above Heel||4 mm|
|Steel Type|| Aogami #2 (Blue Carbon Steel)
With Carbon Steel Cladding
Rust Prone ⓘ This knife can rust, click to learn more.
|Handle||Wa (Japanese) Handle - Octagon Walnut Black Pakkawood Collar|
|Knife Line||Moritaka Ishime|
|Made in||Kumamoto, Japan|
A note about measurements: Handmade Japanese knives can vary in their dimensions, so these measurements are only an example.
About the Shape - The Honesuki is a Japanese style boning knife. Originally designed for poultry and small animals like rabbit, it excels for many larger butchering and fish filleting work. It has a relatively thick heel for scraping meat from bones, and a thinner tip for precise cuts. You don't want to force this knife through bone, but it's perfect for cutting through cartilage and tendons.
About Moritaka Ishime -Moritaka Hamono was founded in 1293 and has been producing high-quality blades for 31 generations. I think they know what they’re doing by now. Five generations ago the family made the switch to producing only Hocho (kitchen knives). The knives made by the Moritaka family have a real classiness and beauty. This series of knives are known for its thinness which translates to fantastic sharpness. This finish is known as Ishime, Rock Surface, and was not used on kitchen knives before this series. This series is exclusive to Knifewear.
A NOTE ABOUT RUST
Carbon steel is an awesome material to make knives out of. It’s easy to get sharp and stays sharp a very long time. But this comes with a trade-off; It will rust if you let it. To avoid “bad” rust (orange rust) Wipe the knife dry with a dry cloth after use. Over time, the blade will begin to protect itself with an oxide layer (grey to dark grey “good” rust), this will slow the reaction time but not inhibit the rust entirely. Maintain the good habit of drying off your knife.
• Only cut food you can bite through with this knife. Hard foods can chip the blade. No olive pits, bones, lobster shells, woody stems or parmesan rinds. Cutting frozen food is especially bad because the cold will make hard steel even more brittle. If you wouldn’t chew it with your own teeth, don’t cut it.
• Your cutting surface is the biggest culprit of dulling your knife. Use wood. End grain wood is especially good. Plastic can be fine too, but certainly not glass, granite or bamboo.
• The edge of your knife works best sliding forwards or backwards. Scraping the knife edge sideways will dull or damage the edge. Instead, use the spine of the knife to move foods across the cutting board. Do not twist the edge or pry with the edge, this is the worst screwdriver you ever bought and these motions will certainly damage the edge. Listen to the knife! If you can hear the edge making a “tink” sound on the cutting board, change what you are doing.
• After use, wash the knife by hand with regular dish soap, rinse with hot water and dry by hand immediately. Dishwashers are very bad for knives.
• Wood handles may dry out over time and exposure to water. Simply treat them with some food safe mineral oil or beeswax.
• If you see orange rust, remove it. The scrubby side of a sponge can do the trick. If it’s still not coming off try baking soda and water mixed into a paste or a product called Barkeeper’s Friend.
• Protect the edge; for your safety and to avoid edge damage. A simple blade cover will do the trick if you keep knives in a drawer or travel case.
• A convenient wall magnet made with wood is a great way to show off your knives. Be sure to put it back spine first, then roll it onto the blade face. This will keep the edge from contacting the wood first.
• The good-ol’ counter top block can keep knives at the ready and protected. So can drawer inserts. Whatever the method, keep the edge from touching anything else.
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